The complete guide to enjoying the Pyrenees resorts without skiing

The complete guide to ...

Winter in the mountains is no longer just about downhill skiing. Today, a new type of visitor is taking over the peaks: the contemplative tourist. Whether you're accompanying skiers, a lover of wide-open spaces, or a gourmet, the resorts of the Pyrenees (Hautes-Pyrénées, Haute-Garonne, Ariège) have adapted their infrastructure. Thanks to the development of pedestrian passes and valley lifts, the mountains are now accessible to everyone.

Enjoy the snow after skiing, between breathtaking panoramas and local cuisine, thanks to the Béarn-Pyrénées Guide!


Summary


1. THE HIGH PYRENEES: PANORAMIC PEAKS AND GASTRONOMY

The Hautes-Pyrénées are champions of "high altitude" accessibility. Here, ski lifts become veritable gateways to natural viewpoints.


SAINT-LARY SOULAN: THE BALCONY OF THE AURE VALLEY

Saint-Lary is the ideal destination for high-altitude hiking. From the village center, the cable car or gondola will whisk you to Pla d'Adet (1700m) in just a few minutes. For those wishing to delve deeper into the area, the new Espiaube gondola offers a suspended journey to spectacular mountain ridges.


Saint Lary
Saint Lary - Viewpoint of Soum de Matte from Pla d'Adet

How do I get there?

  • Direct access from the village via cable car or gondola lift.
  • SNCF train stations in Tarbes or Lannemezan are nearby with shuttle connections.


Where to eat?

For a combination of comfort and a view, Restaurant La Mangeoire ( Hôtel Mercure Saint-Lary ) is a top choice. Enjoy comforting cuisine in an elegant setting, perfect after a walk with stunning mountain views.



Campsite Artiguette Saint-Jacques

Campsite Artiguette Saint-Jacques
Campsite Artiguette Saint-Jacques

Camping Artiguette Saint-Jacques 2*, a family campsite at the foot of the Pyrenees Escape all year round to the 2* ...

2,0 km - Saint-Lary-Soulan

Hôtel Mercure de Saint-Lary

Hôtel Mercure de Saint-Lary
Hôtel Mercure de Saint-Lary

The Mercure Hotel in Saint-Lary welcomes you in winter and summer in this renowned spa and ski resort located in the ...

2,5 km - Saint-Lary-Soulan

Hôtel Mercure de Saint-Lary

Hôtel Mercure de Saint-Lary
Hôtel Mercure de Saint-Lary

The Mercure Hotel in Saint-Lary welcomes you in winter and summer in this renowned spa and ski resort located in the ...

2,5 km - Saint-Lary-Soulan


PEYRAGUDES (LOUDENVIELLE SIDE): THE SKYVALL REVOLUTION

Thanks to the Skyvall gondola lift, you can travel from the village of Loudenvielle (in the Louron Valley) to the resort in less than 10 minutes. It's the perfect option for a car-free day.


Val Louron
Val Louron
Lake Genos-Loudenvielle
Lake Genos-Loudenvielle

How do I get there?

  • Boarding at the centre of Loudenvielle via the Skyvall.
  • Road access via the Col de Peyresourde (winter equipment required).


Where to eat?

The choice is vast:



Vacancéole - Les Jardins de Balnéa

Vacancéole - Les Jardins de Balnéa
Vacancéole - Les Jardins de Balnéa

Located 150 km from Toulouse and 70 km from Lourdes, in the heart of the unspoiled Louron Valley, renowned for its ...

335 m - Loudenvielle

Vacancéole - Les Jardins de Balnéa

Vacancéole - Les Jardins de Balnéa
Vacancéole - Les Jardins de Balnéa

Located 150 km from Toulouse and 70 km from Lourdes, in the heart of the unspoiled Louron Valley, renowned for its ...

335 m - Loudenvielle

Mercure Peyragudes Loudenvielle SPA NUXE

Mercure Peyragudes Loudenvielle SPA NUXE
Mercure Peyragudes Loudenvielle SPA NUXE

Hotel Mercure Peyragudes Loudenvielle, a wellness rental where you can relax in the Pyrenees In the heart of the ...

416 m - Loudenvielle


GRAND TOURMALET: BETWEEN LA MONGIE AND BARÈGES

The largest ski area in the French Pyrenees is also a fabulous playground for pedestrians. On the La Mongie side, the atmosphere is alpine and rugged. On the Barèges side, you'll find the charm of pine forests.


La Mongie
La Mongie
Pic du Midi cable car
Pic du Midi cable car

How do I get there?

  • Road access via Bagnères-de-Bigorre (La Mongie) or via Luz-Saint-Sauveur (Barèges).
  • Train stations in Tarbes or Lourdes + Skibus shuttles.


Where to eat?

  • The Schuss (La Mongie side) is perfect for observing the ballet of skiers.
  • On the Barèges side, the iconic Chez Louisette is an institution, accessible by snowshoe or via marked trails: it is the temple of Pyrenean garbure.


Piau Engaly
Piau Engaly at the foot of the slopes


La Montagne Fleurie

La Montagne Fleurie
La Montagne Fleurie

Located in the heart of the charming village of Barèges, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, the hotel-restaurant La Montagne ...

90 m - Barèges

Campsite La Ribère

Campsite La Ribère
Campsite La Ribère

For a holiday close to nature in the Pyrenees National Park! A warm and sunny campsite. Whether you're here to relax ...

707 m - Barèges

Campsite Le Bergons

Campsite Le Bergons
Campsite Le Bergons

Welcome to BERGONS Campsite in the Hautes-Pyrénées ! Located in Esterre, just 800 meters from the center of ...

5,7 km - Esterre


OTHER GEMS OF THE HAUTES-PYRÉNÉES

  • Cauterets : The Lys gondola lift whisks you into a majestic natural cirque. At the end of the day, the Ski Bar Hotel in the town center is the perfect spot for a hot chocolate (accessible by road via Lourdes, regular buses from the train station).
  • Luz Ardiden, Piau Engaly and Gavarnie Gèdre : These resorts guarantee snow underfoot, even for walkers, with sunny terraces (panoramic resorts accessible by road (winding passes)).
  • Val d'Azun : The temple of Nordic skiing and snowshoeing, where calm and the preservation of nature reign (accessible by road from Argelès-Gazost ).



2. HAUTE-GARONNE: TERRACES ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF TOULOUSE

Less than 1 hour 30 minutes from Toulouse, the Haute-Garonne stations offer an immediate disconnection for pedestrians.


LUCHON – SUPERBAGNÈRES: THE EXPRESS RACK

In just 8 minutes from the center of Luchon, this new gondola lift drops you off on a sunny plateau where everything is within walking distance. It's the ideal spot to admire Aneto and the 3000m peaks.


Superbagnères
Superbagnères

How do I get there?

  • Express rack railway cable car in Luchon town centre.
  • Access possible by train (Toulouse-Luchon line with replacement bus).


Where to eat?

Enjoy the terrace at La Tute de l'Ours or savor a typical dish at La Pique.


Camping Chantecler

Camping Chantecler
Camping Chantecler

Camping Chantecler 2*, a haven of peace in the heart of the Pyrenees, open all year round Let yourself be enchanted ...

2,3 km - Bagnères-de-Luchon

Au fil de l'Oô Campsite

Au fil de l'Oô Campsite
Au fil de l'Oô Campsite

3-star campsite in Luchon in the heart of the Pyrenees The Au fil de l'Oô campsite is located in the heart of the ...

2,4 km - Bagnères-de-Luchon

Thermes de Luchon

Thermes de Luchon
Thermes de Luchon

The Luchon thermal baths offer two therapeutic areas : Rheumatology and Respiratory Tract. Conventional treatments ...

2,4 km - Bagnères-de-Luchon


PEYRAGUDES (LES AGUDES SIDE): THE "FOOT OF THE SLOPES" PLEASURE

The Haute-Garonne side of Peyragudes is particularly popular with pedestrians due to its easy access to terraces. Here, there's no need for ski lifts to immerse yourself in the resort's atmosphere and enjoy the sun overlooking the slopes.


How do I get there?

  • Direct road access from Gouaux-de-Larboust. Parking at the foot of the slopes and terraces.


Where to eat?


LE MOURTIS: THE FOREST STATION

Located above Saint-Béat, this resort is a haven of greenery. Very accessible, it allows pedestrians to follow marked trails through the forest without much technical difficulty, ideal for families.


The Mourtis
The Mourtis

Where to eat?

  • La Grange for its generous mountain specialties.



3. ARIÈGE: WILD NATURE AND AUTHENTICITY

Ariège is the preferred destination for those who flee the crowds and seek a more intimate mountain experience.


AX 3 DOMAINES: THE BALCONY OVER THE ARIÈGE PYRENEES

The Baou cable car directly connects the spa town of Ax-les-Thermes to the Bonascre plateau. It's one of the easiest ways to access the mountain range for a half-day excursion.


Ax-les-Thermes
Ax-les-Thermes

How do I get there?

  • Baou cable car from Ax-les-Thermes.
  • The town has an SNCF train station (direct line Toulouse-Latour-de-Carol).


Where to eat?

The Relais Montagnard d'Orlu (a few kilometers away) or La Tanière in Ax-les-Thermes are addresses selected for their respect for local products.


Domaine de la Vallée d'Ax

Domaine de la Vallée d'Ax
Domaine de la Vallée d'Ax

The Domaine de la Vallée d'Ax*** residence offers fully equipped apartment rentals in Ax-Les-Thermes in the heart ...

Ax-les-Thermes

Mercure Ax-les-Thermes

Mercure Ax-les-Thermes
Mercure Ax-les-Thermes

MERCURE AX-LES-THERMES HOTEL Explore, inhale, blow! Our hotel complex harmoniously combines the timeless charm of ...

307 m - Ax-les-Thermes

Mercure Ax-les-Thermes

Mercure Ax-les-Thermes
Mercure Ax-les-Thermes

MERCURE AX-LES-THERMES HOTEL Explore, inhale, blow! Our hotel complex harmoniously combines the timeless charm of ...

307 m - Ax-les-Thermes

NORTHERN AREAS: THE BEILLE PLATEAU, GUZET AND THE CHIOULA

For pedestrians, these sites are often more pleasant than downhill ski resorts. The Plateau de Beille offers Nordic walking trails and dog sledding. The more secluded Chioula is perfect for a gourmet break. In Guzet or the Monts d'Olmes, the charm of the forests is immediately apparent.


How do I get there?

  • Road access to the plateaus (Beille or Chioula).
  • Skibus shuttles are available from Les Cabannes or Ax-les-Thermes.



HOW TO MAKE A SUCCESSFUL WALK: OUR EXPERT TIPS

THE PEDESTRIAN PASS: SIMPLIFIED BUT REGULATED ACCESS

One unique feature of the Pyrenees is worth noting: unlike in the Alps, the vast majority of chairlifts in the Pyrenees are off-limits to pedestrians for safety reasons. To reach the summits and mountain restaurants, opt for gondolas, cable cars, or valley lifts. A pedestrian pass typically costs between €10 and €18.


Pyrenees Mountains


The perfect pedestrian checklist: What's in my bag?

To enjoy your day at altitude without any unpleasant surprises, here are the essentials to pack in your backpack:

  • A pair of sunglasses: the glare on the snow is intense, even in overcast weather.
  • Sunscreen and lip balm: the cold + UV combo is unforgiving!
  • A pair of shoes with notched soles: essential to avoid turning your walk to the restaurant into an ice skating session.
  • A water bottle: you dehydrate faster at altitude, even without doing sports.
  • A charged smartphone and an external battery: the cold drains batteries very quickly. Useful for souvenir photos… and safety!
  • A little bit of change: always handy for a coffee on a terrace or a tip.
  • Rain gear or a windbreaker: in the mountains, the weather can change in 15 minutes.


Did you know? The Mountain Law mandates specific equipment. From November 1st to March 31st, winter tires or chains/socks are mandatory in the trunk for driving in ski resorts.


Check the resort webcams before heading up. The sun often shines at altitude while the valley is shrouded in clouds.


The Pyrenees offer an authentic village life where thermal baths perfectly complement a day of hiking. Whether in Les Agudes, Saint-Lary, or Ax-les-Thermes, the Pyrenean resorts are an exceptionally rich winter destination for non-skiers.


Did you enjoy this report? Find more in our Top Experiences section.

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