Unusual visit of the Convent of the Carmelites of Pamiers

Among the countless treasures hidden in Ariège and the Pays de Foix, some small towns of character offer a real step back in time. Nicknamed "the city with three bell towers", the former episcopal city of Pamiers is particularly distinguished by its religious heritage: from the Saint-Antonin Cathedral to the Notre-Dame-du-Camp Church via the Mint Tower, the remarkable monuments are not lacking! Among its most beautiful architectural jewels, the Carmelite convent of Pamiers, founded in 1648, opens its doors to the public eager for authentic experiences during exclusive visits organized by the Portes d'Ariège Pyrénées Tourist Office. In the heart of the city, it is a unique and discreet place, still inhabited by the soul of the Carmelite nuns who lived there, recluse, hidden from the world for three centuries. Today the nuns have left but this magnificent convent has many surprises in store for visitors who venture there...

A mystical place in the heart of Pamiers

On June 29, 1648, a delegation of 9 Carmelite sisters arrived in Pamiers with the aim of establishing a new Carmel. Warmly welcomed by the population and by the bishop, they first found old barns and a 13th century house, Place du Mercadal (“Market Square” in Catalan of Balearic origin). They deposited the Blessed Sacrament there and settled there little by little, buying the surrounding houses, the gardens and the alleys in order to build this 6000m² carmel.

The Carmelites follow the doctrine of Saint Teresa of Avila and dedicate their lives to work and prayer, in community and in self-sufficiency. In this monastery, they renounce the world, withdraw into silence, the love of Christ and the total gift of self.

The Carmelite nuns left the Carmel for good in 2008 and the Town Hall became its owner in 2012 to restore it and develop it into a cultural space. Fascinating guided tours are now organized to arouse the curiosity of history buffs and tourists passing through Pamiers… but above all to reveal some of the mysteries that the Carmelite convent still hides.

The Chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, dating from 1762, with a single nave and side altars in a luminous decor in keeping with the Carmelite tradition.

A place full of mystery

Carmel de Pamiers: a jewel of heritage to visit exclusively!

The appointment is made for a guided tour of the Carmel in a small group (free), offered once a week in the summer season by the tourist office. An opportunity not to be missed! We meet the other participants in front of the Cathedral, the ideal starting point to explore Pamiers on foot.

Right in the city center, behind its high walls and its austere porch, the imposing ensemble of the Carmel feeds our imagination. When crossing the door of this sacred place, a feeling of serenity invades us. The convent is organized around a garden with arcades and galleries forming the cloister which dates from 1695. Sobriety and modesty are the key words of this spiritual life.

We discover in this solemn place the austere life of the 30 Carmelite nuns returned to order by choice or by punishment. We explore with our guide the different spaces of the daily life of the nuns: the gardens they cultivated, the chapter room (where the tombstones of the Reverend Mothers are), the refectory, the places of collective life, the chapel, the oratory and visiting rooms to receive their families behind a grid to prevent any physical contact. Upstairs, the dormitories consist of sober 7m² cells, with opaque windows for those facing the street. It was necessary to protect oneself from the gaze of others or from one's own curiosity about the outside world! The details to observe pointed out by our guide are captivating and plunge us into this reclusive and solitary universe.

One of the bedrooms, with a view of the cloister

The collection of abandoned children at the Carmel of Pamiers

We pass in front of the door of the tower, symbol of the cloister. This large cylindrical wooden container, equipped with a mechanism allowing it to turn on itself, limits the exchange with the outside. Often overlooked in the history of the city, the tower of the Carmel of Pamiers was used for the anonymous abandonment of children. From the moment the babies were placed in the tower, the nuns took responsibility for them until they were placed in a family.

We walk through the corridors, alleys and gardens of this high spiritual place. Calm and serenity reign everywhere. In this island outside the world, one can only be seized by this monastic way of life of the Carmelites. An hour of visit to fully savor, like a spiritual parenthesis out of time. A "sacred" moment of emotion!

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Article and photos by Lesley Williamson for the Guide Toulouse Pyrénées