The Argelès-Gazost market, between local produce and traditions of the Pyrenees

Nestled at an altitude of 460 metres, Argelès-Gazost is a charming mid-mountain village that enjoys a privileged geographical location in the heart of the Pyrenees. Renowned for its thermal waters and its climatic benefits, the town with the allure of "little Nice" is very popular with epicureans for its fabulous mountain scenery, for its restaurants, its café terraces, its casino, its gardens, its fountains and for its market which has existed since 1292!

A real meeting place for traders and producers in the Argelès-Gazost valley, this weekly market is an essential place for exchange and conviviality that I will introduce to you in the company of José Alvarez, the President of the Hautes Pyrénées Markets Syndicate.

A market of countries and small producers

Throughout the year, the Argelès-Gazost market is the beating heart of the town every Tuesday morning. Documented in the town archives, this institution has been setting the rhythm of life for the inhabitants of the village and the entire valley for over 700 years around the church, between the Place du Foirail and the Place de la République.

This place full of history is José's fiefdom, he knows it like the back of his hand.

"Here, the abundance of products is representative of the diversity of the local terroirs. Farmers and traders from all over the valley meet there every week to sell their produce, of course, but also to have a good time with the locals and visitors. The farmers leave their farms for a few hours, the breeders come down from the mountain with fresh, quality products for everyone's enjoyment," he explains enthusiastically. "This market lives all year round thanks to the producers, the "old ones", joined by seasonal workers, the "young ones", in the summer who decorate the stalls with crafts, products from different regions and other fancies," he explains.

Precisely, let’s go together to meet the “old-timers”, these true local figures in the four corners of the market.

To start our tour, head to Dominique Escoulan's traveling hardware store, a family business for three generations. If you're looking for a part or DIY equipment, you'll definitely find what you're looking for in his bric-a-brac. Dominique offers a full range of hardware and tool products, but he specializes above all in Bigorre hazelnut baskets and the famous Pyrenees cowbells, these bells made entirely by hand that shepherds place around the necks of grazing cows.

A few stalls further on, the scent of butter and pastries tickles our nostrils. These delicious smells emanate from Bernard Laquerie's stand, which is busy making the traditional spit cake. This emblematic delicacy of the Pyrenees, conical in shape and fitted with "spikes", delights the palate with its taste of fresh butter with vanilla and rum aromas. A real delight!

As we wander between the stands with José, we quickly get carried away by the boundless energy of the hundred or so passionate producers and traders who bring the market to life. On the stalls, food products are given pride of place for the greatest pleasure of consumers: seasonal fruits and vegetables, meat and poultry, typical ready-made dishes, bread, pastries, etc.

Charcuterie plays a major role here, an ancestral know-how in the Pyrenees and the Basque Country. Here, the black pork of Bigorre is a particularly appreciated local specialty.

Head to the stand of Cathy and Francis, whose core business is charcuterie, salted meats and traditional cuisine of pork raised on their farm: the Ferme de l'Enclave. The couple has been offering a range of delicious pork-based products (candied sausage, ham, sausage, black pudding, pâté) for over 30 years!

Cheese is also a real star of the market : Barousse cheese, Pyrenees goat's cheese, sheep's cheese, Ossau-Iraty... The choice is vast!

With great pride, Jeannette and Jean-Charles Chourré present a range of artisanal cheeses that they make with the milk of the sheep, cows and goats from their farm located between Ferrières and Arbéost. The Cascades farm also offers a selection of tommes from their high mountain breeding as well as products made from edible wild plants. Further on, Pascal introduces us to his work as a beekeeper through the variety of honeys that he produces in the nearby Val d'Azun. This is the perfect opportunity to discuss the precious know-how of these artisans!

Faced with this abundance of local products, I venture to ask José about the typical and essential dishes of the Pyrenees to taste during a stay in the region. His answer is spontaneous, without hesitation: the spit cake, the black pork charcuterie, the blueberry pie, the local cheese, the Gave trout and the grilled lamb chop accompanied by Tarbais beans. All washed down with a Madiran, this great red wine from the South-West of the Pyrenees. Enough to delight the most demanding palates!

In addition to food products, stands selling clothing, hats, decoration, jewelry and cosmetics blend into the decor of this market with its jovial and warm atmosphere. Here, all generations enjoy Tuesday mornings together, taking the time to stroll, chat, share a coffee on a sunny terrace with the majestic Pyrenees mountains as a backdrop... Simple and authentic moments not to be missed!

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Photos and Article prepared by Lesley Williamson for the Toulouse Pyrenees Guide