The authentic 18th century pharmacy of Saint-Lizier, one of the most beautiful in France

Centuries of history and a unique spiritual dynamism have bequeathed to Saint-Lizier in the Couserans a rich cultural and religious heritage – including five monuments listed as World Heritage Sites, but also more discreet and unusual architectural gems to discover. In the courtyard of the Hôtel-Dieu where the sick were once treated, time seems to stand still. The elegant building of the former hospice shelters behind its high walls one of the best-kept treasures of the episcopal city: an authentic, perfectly preserved 18th century pharmacy. In this pharmacy, potions, syrups and remedies were concocted according to ancestral processes. Let's discover this unique place together for a trip back in time!

Saint-Lizier, capital of Couserans, perched on a hill

Visit the historic pharmacy of the Hôtel-Dieu de Saint-Lizier

The history of this pharmacy is closely linked to that of the Hôtel-Dieu of Saint-Lizier, where the poor, the abbey's sick, passing pilgrims, and the convent sisters were taken in and cared for. Adjacent to the Romanesque church in the village's main square, the Hôtel-Dieu is not open to the public. This 18th ^- century building, listed as a historic monument, now houses the headquarters of the Couserans community of communes and the Tourist Office, which organizes tours of this mysterious pharmacy, located within the building itself. We follow the guide through the former Jardin des Simples, facing the Pyrenees mountain range, to access the apothecary through a monumental door. Let's take a trip back in time, back to the Age of Enlightenment!

Ranked among the most beautiful in France, this charming pharmacy from 1764 instantly dazzles us with its beauty and transports us to a forgotten era. The walls, adorned with Louis XV cherry and pear wood paneling, are lavishly decorated with pots, earthenware vases and blown bottles containing a variety of concoctions extracted from the plant, mineral and animal kingdoms.

A real alchemist's workshop!

Sweet almond oil to soothe the trachea, lily oil to soothe colic, worm oil to strengthen the nerves, peach syrup to purify the brain, rose syrup to purge the humors... Many remedies were made from crushed, distilled or cooked medicinal plants while some surprising elixirs such as "dog oil", "Vinegar of the 4 thieves" or "Ratafia for the poor" reveal the more mysterious dimension of the apothecary's profession, halfway between sorcerer and doctor.

A whole surgical arsenal

In addition to prescribing or preparing medications to relieve the sick, pharmacists in the 18th century were often forced to perform leg, hand, or arm amputations, as well as tooth extractions. Displayed in one of the offices are period instruments, saws, and tourniquets, used to perform surgical procedures without anesthesia on the marble table in the center of the pharmacy. An arsenal that bears witness to the evolution of medical practices over the centuries!

We take the time to observe the details all around the room while listening attentively to our guide's explanations. The pharmacy seems immutable today. It is not only an exceptional witness to the pharmaceutical world of the 18th century but also the guardian of a collective memory that endures over time. A captivating and unique visit, which we highly recommend during your discovery of Saint-Lizier!

Did you like this report? Find more on the Toulouse Pyrenees Guide Blog. We're on social media; check out the Toulouse Pyrenees Guide Facebook page and the @guidetoulousepyrenees Instagram account.

Article and photos by Lesley Williamson for the Toulouse Pyrenees Guide